In Part Two of my camper conversion I began repairing and treating all the rust in the doors and frame work. I used a three part rust treatment from Dulux. This consisted of DULUX Quit Rust Rust Remover, Cold Galv primer, and gloss enamel topcoat. I used an angle grinder with grinding and cutting discs and a drill wire brush to remove all rust first before treating.
Typical for a 20 year old door. 🙁
The bad sections were cut out and new steel welded in place and then cold galvanised and painted.
The chassis was degreased using spray on degreaser and a wire brush to remove caked on dirt. I removed the three floor panels inside for better access to reach the top of the chassis. These are easily removed by undoing the screws or bolts around the edge. Once rinsed and dried I then lightly hand sanded it with 200 grit sandpaper to remove any flaking paint or remaining dirt. I then coated it twice with 3M Chassis Black paint. While doing so I gave the chassis a good look over to check for rust. All good.
The wheel arches and underbody panels were painted with brush on Body Deadener. This is a bituminous compound which adds weight to the panels and stops them vibrating. It’s great for stopping the loud sound of rocks flicking up in the wheel arches.
To reduce the road noise and make my truck comfortable for thousands of kilometres of corrugated tracks, I bought 4 boxes of Dynamat Xtreme sound proofing. Dynamat has a self adhesive backing but must be installed on a clean surface. I cleaned all surfaces first with methylated spirits to remove all dust and oils. The Dynamat was cut with a stanley knife to fit. The rear paper backing was then peeled off gradually and pressed into place using a roller to remove all air bubbles. Dynamat is waterproof and does not retain water, but water can become trapped underneath if it is not presses down firmly. The installation was easy but took a few weeks to complete.
This made a very noticeable difference in the ride quality with the ability to talk at a reasonable level without yelling, and actually being able to listen to the radio without it cranked all the way up.
10mm closed cell foam was then glued on top for insulation using Selleys Kwik Grip gel. I installed this in the doors and roof. The difference in interior temperatures and noise reduction has been quite dramatic. The majority of the noise now comes from the engine through the firewall. This unfortunately is difficult to stop due to the loudness of my 200tdi.
Read part 3 of my conversion here: Land Rover Defender Expedition Camper conversion – Part 3
If video 2 did not display above you can watch it here: http://youtu.be/hDUR0uLpyI8